At Hyatt Centric City Centre Kuala Lumpur, the kitchen carries an unmistakably Neapolitan accent, shaped by three decades of cooking across four continents. In this month’s “Behind the Kitchen” feature, Executive Chef Vincenzo Carbone speaks to Wanderlust Tips about the volcanic-stone oven he carried home from Naples, the philosophy binding IL Forno, TanBuri and @21 Rooftop Bar under one roof, and why he believes the simplest dishes are always the hardest to master.
Dear Chef Enzo, thank you for taking the time to speak with Wanderlust Tips as part of our “Behind the Kitchen” feature. We are delighted to have you with us today.
You grew up in Naples and have cooked across four continents over the past 30 years. Looking back, what moment or place changed the way you think about food most profoundly?
I always say my first kitchen was my family home in Naples. Growing up, food was never just about eating. It was about family, tradition, conversation and generosity. Watching my mother and grandmother cook taught me that the best dishes are often the simplest, provided they are made with care and respect for the ingredients. Travelling across different countries reinforced that lesson. Every culture has its own traditions, but the common thread is that food brings people together. That is something I have carried with me throughout my career. Whether I am cooking in Italy, China or Malaysia, I always try to create food that connects people around the table.
As Executive Chef of Hyatt Centric City Centre Kuala Lumpur, you oversee the entire culinary direction of the hotel, from IL Forno to TanBuri to the rooftop bar. How do you bring coherence to such different dining concepts under one roof?
Although each outlet has its own personality, they all share the same philosophy: honest food, quality ingredients and memorable experiences. IL Forno celebrates authentic Italian cuisine rooted in my heritage. TanBuri focuses on approachable local comfort flavours, while @21 Rooftop Bar is about bringing people together over creative drinks and casual bites with a view of the city. What connects them is consistency. Every dish, every drink and every interaction should reflect the same commitment to quality, hospitality and creating moments that guests remember.
Hyatt Centric as a brand is built around connecting guests to local culture. How does that philosophy translate into the food and beverage experience you are building here in Kuala Lumpur?
One of the things I enjoy most about working in Kuala Lumpur is its incredible diversity. People here are curious about food and very open to discovering different flavours. While IL Forno remains authentically Italian, we also recognise where we are. We think about how local diners enjoy sharing food, how families gather, how friends celebrate and how travellers explore a city through its dining scene. Our goal is not to change Italian recipes. It is to present authentic Italian cuisine in a way that feels welcoming and relevant to the people dining with us in Kuala Lumpur.
IL Forno is described as a trattoria, a word that carries a very specific feeling in Italy. What does that word mean to you, and how have you tried to bring that spirit to life here?
For me, a trattoria is about warmth rather than formality. It is the kind of place where people feel comfortable returning again and again. The food is honest, portions are generous, conversations are lively and everyone feels welcome. That is exactly what we wanted IL Forno to become. We want guests to enjoy authentic Italian food in a relaxed atmosphere, whether they are celebrating a special occasion or simply sharing a meal with family and friends after work.
You brought a pizza oven from Naples to Kuala Lumpur, hand-crafted from volcanic stone. What does that oven mean to you, and what does it bring to the kitchen that nothing else can replace?
The oven is much more than a piece of equipment. It represents where I come from. Traditional Neapolitan pizza depends on extremely high temperatures and the way heat circulates inside the oven. Combined with our 36-hour slow-matured dough, it creates the light, airy crust and distinctive texture that simply cannot be replicated in a conventional oven. Every pizza that comes out of that oven carries a small piece of Naples with it, and I think our guests can taste the difference.
The one-metre antipasto has become a signature at IL Forno. Where did that idea come from, and what do you hope guests feel when it arrives at the table?
Italian dining has always been about sharing. The one-metre antipasto was designed to recreate that feeling of gathering around a table before the main meal begins. It encourages people to explore different flavours together, rather than ordering individual starters. When it arrives at the table, I hope it creates excitement. It is often the moment when everyone puts down their phones, starts talking, reaches across the table and simply enjoys being together. Those are the moments that make dining memorable.
Malaysian diners are adventurous and discerning. What do you most want them to discover about the dining experiences at this hotel?
I hope they discover authenticity. Authenticity does not mean making food complicated. It means respecting traditions, using quality ingredients and cooking with purpose. Whether someone visits IL Forno, TanBuri or @21 Rooftop Bar, I want them to leave feeling that they experienced something genuine. Good food should tell a story, and every outlet has its own story to share.
After 30 years in professional kitchens, what still excites you about cooking?
Every day is different. New ingredients, new ideas, new people and new challenges keep cooking interesting. I also enjoy mentoring young chefs and watching them develop their own confidence and creativity. The day I stop learning is the day I should stop cooking. Fortunately, I still learn something every day.
If you could share one dish from the current menu that says everything about what your kitchen stands for, what would it be and why?
It would have to be the Pizza Margherita. Many people think it is the simplest pizza, but that simplicity is exactly what makes it so challenging. There is nowhere to hide. Every ingredient matters, every step matters and every second in the oven matters. It represents everything I believe in: respecting tradition, using quality ingredients and letting craftsmanship speak for itself.
You have said that food means happiness. What does that look like for you at the end of a long service?
For me, happiness is walking through the restaurant and seeing people still talking after they have finished their meal. It is hearing laughter from a table, seeing empty plates, or watching someone introduce a friend to a favourite dish for the first time. Cooking is hard work, but moments like those remind me why I chose this profession many years ago. If people leave happier than when they arrived, then we have done our job.
Wanderlust Tips extends its warmest thanks to Chef Enzo for a conversation as generous as his cooking. We look forward to tasting more of his Neapolitan craftsmanship at Hyatt Centric City Centre Kuala Lumpur.
About Hyatt Centric City Centre Kuala Lumpur
Hyatt Centric City Centre Kuala Lumpur places travellers in the heart of the city, within walking distance of the Petronas Twin Towers, KL Tower and Bukit Bintang. Inspired by Kuala Lumpur’s tin-mining heritage, the hotel’s contemporary design features industrial textures, bold local artwork and vibrant spaces that reflect the city’s creative spirit. With 312 stylish rooms and suites, including both balcony and non-balcony options, guests can choose how they experience the city. Three distinctive dining destinations, TanBuri, IL Forno and @21 Rooftop Bar, along with a 24-hour fitness centre and infinity saltwater pool, make the hotel the perfect launchpad to discover Kuala Lumpur like a local.