Chris Fong: Blending tradition with modernity, celebrating local ingredients

In June 2024, ORYZ Saigon proudly received the prestigious Michelin Selected recognition after less than a year of operation. This is a significant milestone, affirming ORYZ Saigon’s position on the Vietnamese culinary map. Wanderlust Tips had the pleasure of meeting and conversing with Chef Chris, the head chef and owner of ORYZ Saigon, to uncover the secrets behind this remarkable success.

Hi Chef Chris, could you please introduce yourself and your culinary background to our readers?

Thank you for having me. It’s a pleasure to share the ORYZ story with Wanderlust Tips magazine. My culinary journey began amidst the vibrant Chinatown in Hong Kong, Malaysia, and Singapore. Growing up, I was immersed in a diverse culinary landscape that moved me from countries to countries. This ignited my passion for food. This early exposure to various cultures and traditions then laid the foundation for my culinary exploration.

Over a decade, I honed my craft in the demanding kitchens of renowned restaurants in Singapore, Hong Kong and Japan. These experiences solidified my belief in the power of locally sourced ingredients and the importance of blending Eastern heritage into my culinary style.

Ultimately, I found myself drawn to Vietnam, particularly Saigon, with its rich cultural heritage and diverse spirit. ORYZ is my ode to this beautiful country, where I aim to redefine Vietnamese-Chinese gastronomy through the lens of time and tradition.

What are some of your signature dishes and what cooking styles do you enjoy working with? Can you share your experience working in professional kitchens?

My culinary style is a fusion of tradition and innovation, with a strong emphasis on highlighting the local ingredients. I’m particularly drawn to the art of Asian fermentation, which adds depth and complexity to our dishes. It’s a process that requires patience, precision, and a deep understanding of ingredients. At ORYZ, we celebrate the ‘Taste of Time’ through our fermented creations like Cơm mẻ (fermented rice), homemade soy sauce, or Chao (fermented tofu). These dishes embody our philosophy of honoring tradition while pushing culinary boundaries.

Equally important to me is showcasing local ingredients. Vietnam boasts an incredible diversity of produce, and I believe it’s our duty as chefs to highlight these treasures. By incorporating unique flavors such as Mắc Khén from Tây Bắc, we aim to showcase the richness and complexity of Vietnamese cuisine, and also tell the authentic story of Vietnam through our food.

Working in professional kitchens has been an invaluable experience. The high-pressure environment demands precision, creativity, and teamwork. My time at renowned restaurants like Restaurant André and Les Amis taught me the importance of discipline, attention to detail, and the pursuit of culinary excellence. It’s a world of constant learning and evolution, and I’m grateful for the opportunities I’ve had to grow as a chef.

Is there a particular type of cuisine you’re especially passionate about? Can you describe a difficult situation you faced in the kitchen and how you overcame it?

My culinary passion lies in the realm of Oriental gastronomy. It’s a vast and complex combination that requires a deep understanding of multiple cultures. While the region has seen a surge in interest in Oriental cuisine, Vietnam is still in the early stages of exploring this rich culinary heritage. 

Asia is a rich source of culinary traditions. ORYZ brings these original flavors back to life, honoring their cultural roots while adding a modern touch. One of the primary challenges in fusing Vietnamese and Chinese culinary influences is bridging the cultural gap. Both cultures have deeply rooted culinary traditions, and finding common ground while preserving authenticity can be complex. Factors such as taste preferences, food perceptions, and collaborative work styles all come into play. 

To overcome this, we prioritize open communication and cultural immersion. By conducting thorough research and engaging in extensive discussions within the team, we aim to foster a deep understanding of both cultures. Additionally, we believe in firsthand experience. Regularly exposing our team to the heart of these cultures through overseas trips is instrumental in developing a nuanced appreciation for their culinary heritage.

Wanderlust Tips readers are curious – ORYZ Saigon is a new restaurant but it’s always packed! What do you think is the secret to its success? Is it the delicious food, or something else?

Thank you for the kind words! The overwhelming support for ORYZ Saigon has been truly humbling. As a small restaurant, we’ve had the unique advantage of fostering a close-knit relationship with our customers. Our intimate size allows us to provide personalized attention and create a welcoming atmosphere. This has enabled us to establish long-term connections with our guests, who have become an integral part of the ORYZ Saigon family.

While our size may contribute to our popularity, the synergy between several other elements also sets us apart. We strive to curate an ambiance that transports our guests on a culinary journey through Asia. Every detail, from the interior design to the impeccable service, is carefully considered to create a holistic experience.

Additionally, our commitment to using fresh, locally sourced ingredients resonates with our guests. It’s a testament to our dedication to supporting local farmers and artisans. By highlighting the rich flavors of Vietnam, we’ve managed to capture the hearts of both local and international diners. 

I believe that our ability to combine exceptional food, a welcoming atmosphere, and personalized service has been key to our success. This approach has not only helped us stay consistently busy but has also cultivated a loyal customer base that continues to support our growth.

The menu at ORYZ Saigon seems to change often. What inspires your creative dishes?

Inspiration comes from the heart of our concept: to reimagine Asian cuisine through a modern lens. We’re not bound by the constraints of modern borders or culinary conventions. Instead, we delve deep into the past, seeking inspiration from the traditions, flavors, and techniques of ancient civilizations. 

Our approach is rooted in a deep respect for tradition, while also embracing the opportunity to innovate.  By focusing on high-quality, locally sourced ingredients and incorporating time-honored techniques like fermentation, we create familiar and unexpected dishes.

Unlike many restaurants that focus on modern Vietnamese cuisine or seasonal ingredients, we’re committed to a culturally focused approach. This requires extensive research and exploration to uncover the nuances and complexities of each tradition. For example, our Hong Kong menu is infused with the soul of oyster sauce, an ingredient that reflects the region’s culinary heritage.

Our recent exploration into Nanyang cuisine, a fusion of Chinese and Malay & Singapore influences, is a testament to our commitment to pushing culinary boundaries. We believe that by understanding the historical and cultural context of different cuisines, we can truly innovate without losing the soul.

What were your inspirations for creating the latest Nanyang Menu?

Our latest menu, Nanyang, is a result of an immersive journey into the heart of Malaysian and Singaporean culture.  We brought our team to Penang and embark on a flavorful journey through time, exploring the rich history and diverse influences that have shaped this extraordinary cuisine. Nanyang cuisine is a testament to the power of cultural exchange. Centuries ago, Chinese immigrants brought their culinary traditions to Southeast Asia, where they blended harmoniously with the local Malay flavors. This menu showcases our commitment to innovation while respecting tradition and our effort to promote cross cultural exchange. As part of our ongoing mission to bring the world to you, ORYZ Saigon continues to introduce new and exciting culture-based menus with the Nanyang menu being the latest addition to this journey, offering our guests a unique opportunity to savor the authentic flavors of Hoa people immigrating into Malaysia and Singapore right here in Ho Chi Minh City.

How do you handle situations when you’re missing ingredients or facing other unexpected challenges in the kitchen?

In the fast-paced world of a restaurant, unexpected challenges are inevitable. Whether it’s a missing ingredient, equipment malfunction, or a sudden surge in demand, we’re prepared to adapt and overcome. At ORYZ Saigon, our non-hierarchical organizational structure plays a crucial role in our ability to respond quickly and effectively.

Our directors are highly hands-on, directly involved in the restaurant’s day-to-day operations. This flat hierarchy ensures that information flows freely, and decisions can be made swiftly. When faced with a challenge, we don’t get bogged down in red tape or lengthy approval processes. Instead, we embrace a ‘just-do-it’ mentality, empowering our team to find creative solutions and take immediate action.

This approach is inspired by the agile and iterative nature of startups. We believe that by moving quickly and adapting to changing circumstances, we can deliver exceptional dining experiences, even in the face of adversity. When unexpected challenges arise, we see them as opportunities to showcase our flexibility, resourcefulness, and commitment to providing our guests with the best possible service.

You mentioned you have Chinese heritage and have lived in places like Hong Kong, Malaysia and Singapore. Why did you decide to open ORYZ Saigon in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam? As someone who is not originally from Vietnam, did you face any difficulties starting a business or communicating with your staff?

I’ve always been drawn to the rich culinary traditions of Southeast Asia, and Vietnam, in particular, has captured my heart. When the opportunity arose to open ORYZ Saigon in Ho Chi Minh City, I knew it was the perfect place to share my passion for Asian gastronomy.

Of course, venturing into a new market presented its challenges. Language barriers were initially a hurdle, but I believe in the power of shared passion. By fostering a collaborative environment and demonstrating respect for local culture, I was able to build strong relationships with my team.

The most rewarding aspect of this journey has been the constant learning and unlearning. I’ve had to adapt my approach to business and management to fit the Vietnamese context. It’s been a process of learning from my team and understanding how Vietnamese people perceive things.

I think the key to success in a new market is to embrace the learn and unlearn journey. You can’t simply apply your existing knowledge and assumptions. You need to be willing to learn from the local people and adapt your approach accordingly. However, it’s important to strike a balance. Being here means constantly learning from the team, but not fully, just semi-localizing, because you’ll lose the soul of what makes your business unique. It’s about finding a harmonious blend of local influences and your own unique identity.

It’s amazing that ORYZ Saigon was chosen as one of the Michelin Selected restaurants 2024, especially with so much competition! What do you think helped the restaurant get this recognition? Does being on the Michelin list add any pressure?

Being named a Michelin Guide 2024 restaurant is an incredible honor and a testament to the hard work and dedication of the entire ORYZ team. It’s a recognition of our commitment to delivering exceptional dining experiences.

I believe our success lies in our unwavering focus on authenticity and innovation. By honoring traditional Asian flavors while pushing culinary boundaries, we’ve created a unique dining experience that resonates with both local and international guests. Our dedication to using high-quality, locally sourced ingredients also sets us apart.

Of course, being on the Michelin list comes with heightened expectations. It’s a constant reminder of the importance of maintaining our high standards and staying true to our vision. While the pressure is there, it also serves as motivation to continue pushing the boundaries of our cuisine.

What are ORYZ Saigon’s goals for the future, following the Michelin Selected recognition?

The Michelin Selected recognition is a significant milestone for ORYZ Saigon, but it’s by no means a destination. We remain committed to our goal of evolving ORYZ into a destination for culinary exploration and cultural exchange.

We aim to expand our reach while preserving the core essence of our brand. This includes bringing the world to you through our constantly changing menu themes. We want to introduce our customers to different Asian cultures and cuisines, guiding them on a culinary journey around the diverse landscape of Asia.

Ultimately, we aspire to position ORYZ as a global ambassador for Vietnamese-Chinese gastronomy. We want to showcase the rich heritage and diversity of Asian cuisine, while also paying homage to the beauty of Vietnamese agriculture as well as Chinese immigrant culture.

The last question, Are there any other restaurants or areas in Ho Chi Minh City that inspire you or that you enjoy visiting?

Ho Chi Minh City is a vibrant culinary melting pot, and several restaurants and areas inspire me. One of my favorite places to explore is Chợ Lớn. During my days off, I love to wander through the bustling streets of District 5, immersing myself in the rich culture of the Hoa people.

The diverse range of restaurants in Chợ Lớn offers a fascinating glimpse into Viet-Chinese cuisine. I’ve been inspired by the flavors and techniques I’ve encountered there, and they’ve played a significant role in the development of our Sài Gòn – Chợ Lớn menu. It’s a place where tradition meets innovation, and I’m always discovering new and exciting culinary experiences.

Thank you so much for sharing your inspiring story. It’s incredible to learn about your journey to success. I hope that you and ORYZ Saigon continue to achieve great milestones in the future with even more innovative menus.

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